There are few dishes that have played out more in popular culture and Tamil cinema than the traditional, almost humble Meen Kulambu. Almost across the state, this dish is the epitome of comfort food. There are different versions across the state and almost every home has its own variation of this hearty fish dish that is the ultimate food craving for Tamilians across the world. During a recent visit to Sangamithirai at Feathers Hotel, Chennai, the meen kuzhambu dominated my conversation with Prem Kumar, the Executive Chef of the hotel.
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Sangamithirai celebrates regional cuisine from across Tamil Nadu. The culinary team travelled across the state for home-style recipes and many of the team members have also brought their family recipes and old-school cooking techniques to the mix. I’ve tried some hearty versions of the Meen kulambu in different food capitals of the state from Madurai to Tuticorin. Some of the home-style versions are very flavourful and include one ingredient that’s almost immeasurable – love.
Tamarind is the key ingredient in the kulambu. There are similar dishes across South India, from pulusu in Andhra Pradesh to Saaru in Karnataka. One of the best versions of Meen kulambu I’ve tried was in Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia. The country is home to many Tamil expatriates. While there are some versions of kulambu that contain dal, this dish typically does not contain dal and that’s what distinguishes it from a sambar. Tamarind adds a tangy flavour – the perfect contrast to the flavours of the fish, ground coconut and the lively spices.
Tamarind is the key ingredient in the kulambu. Photo Credit: iStock
Chef Prem Kumar tells me that the Sangamithirai version is prepared in an earthen pot or ‘mansatti’ in Tamil. This is how this dish is traditionally made in most villages and small towns to this day. He reminisces about his childhood visits to his village where the mansatti meen kulambu used to be a community affair when families gathered around and shared their family recipes and tips. Many of the ingredients – like curry leaves – are sourced locally.
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The earthen pot adds a unique flavour to this dish. The dish is usually made with the catch of the day or the fish that’s readily available in each village or town adding to the distinct flavour in each region of the state. I’ve tried different versions made with Sankara Meen (Red Snapper), Nethili Meen (Anchovies), or Vanjaram Meen (Seer Fish). The fish is marinated with a blend of spices, allowing it to absorb the flavours before being cooked in a rich broth made with tamarind pulp, tomatoes, and coconut milk.
Meen kulambu tastes best with rice but it’s also a popular accompaniment with dosa or idli. In many homes, the gravy is prepared a day in advance and kept at room temperature. This enhances the taste and allows the fish to absorb the flavours better. Chef Prem Kumar tells me that this practise is not followed in summer where it’s better to refrigerate it overnight. You can try this recipe at home. Like we say in Tamil Nadu, meen kulambu is more than just a dish, it’s an emotion
How To Make Mansatti Meen Kulambu
Recipe Courtesy – Prem Kumar, Executive Chef, Feathers Hotel, Chennai
Ingredients:
- Red snapper fish / Sankara Meen – 20 pieces cleaned & washed
- Gingelly oil -80ml
- Turmeric Powder – 1 tsp
- Tamarind Pulp – 3 tbsp (or to taste)
- Tomato-100gm
- Fenugreek -25gm
- Mustard seeds -15gm
- Curry leaves – a handful
To grind:
- Coconut – 1.5 cup
- Chilli Powder – 2 tbsp (or to taste)
- Coriander Powder – 1 tbsp
- Shallots / Sambar Onion – 4 nos.
- Garlic – 2 cloves
- Whole Pepper – 1 tsp
- Water as needed to grind.
Method:
- Blend all ingredients (listed under ‘to grind’) in a blender with the required amount of water. Grind into a smooth paste.
- Add salt, turmeric and tamarind and mix well.
- Cover and cook this for about 10 minutes
- Add in the ground masala and mix well. Add water if needed.
- Once it reaches a boil, turn down the flame to simmer mode and let it cook for 5 to 8 minutes.
- Now add in the snapper fish pieces and simmer for another 10 more minutes.
- Add curry leaves, and stir well. Let it simmer for a few minutes.
- Turn off the flame and keep the dish covered with a lid.
- Serve with hot rice.
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About Ashwin RajagopalanI am the proverbial slashie – a content architect, writer, speaker and cultural intelligence coach. School lunch boxes are usually the beginning of our culinary discoveries.That curiosity hasn’t waned. It’s only got stronger as I’ve explored culinary cultures, street food and fine dining restaurants across the world. I’ve discovered cultures and destinations through culinary motifs. I am equally passionate about writing on consumer tech and travel.
